The saga is almost over - 2005, C220 CDI Classic SE, S203.208 (Estate), OM646.963 Engine

[LostKiwi]

There is guidance in the MOT testers notes relating to taper roller bearings (which MB are) that state that some movement is desirable to allow for heat in the bearing. Non taper bearings should have no movement at all.

To adjust remove the wheel and prise off the dust cap. It can be difficult to remove. Try not to damage it so you can reuse it.
Under the cap is a split nut with a pinch bolt. Using a 5mm (from memory) ball head Allen key loosen the bolt and by hand tighten the nut. Spin the hub several times. It should spin freely. Continue tightening until the hub is not spinning freely then wind the nut back 60 degrees. Check the hub now spins freely and if so refit the wheel with 2 bolts. Check for movement in the 12 6 plane. There should be just the slightest movement. Remove the wheel, check the clamp bolt is tight, refit the dust cap and wheel. Recheck adjustment and if all good job done .

It's important not to set the bearing too tight - they are better too loose than too tight (you'd think the numpty doing the check would know this - unless he does and is using it as a money spinner).

 

[NBurns]

There is guidance in the MOT testers notes relating to taper roller bearings (which MB are) that state that some movement is desirable to allow for heat in the bearing. Non taper bearings should have no movement at all.

To adjust remove the wheel and prise off the dust cap. It can be difficult to remove. Try not to damage it so you can reuse it.
Under the cap is a split nut with a pinch bolt. Using a 5mm (from memory) ball head Allen key loosen the bolt and by hand tighten the nut. Spin the hub several times. It should spin freely. Continue tightening until the hub is not spinning freely then wind the nut back 60 degrees. Check the hub now spins freely and if so refit the wheel with 2 bolts. Check for movement in the 12 6 plane. There should be just the slightest movement. Remove the wheel, check the clamp bolt is tight, refit the dust cap and wheel. Recheck adjustment and if all good job done .

It's important not to set the bearing too tight - they are better too loose than too tight (you'd think the numpty doing the check would know this - unless he does and is using it as a money spinner).

Exactly. Thank you LostKiwi.


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[Jim2]

I'm not sure if it apply's to MB, but in other makes, when you come across tapered wheel bearings, there used to be a thick washer, and you tightened the locking nut until the shim/washer was immovable, then slackened off the lock nut until you could lever the shim from side to side with a flat bladed screwdriver, and that was that. Clamp the locknut, and pack it with hub / bearing grease and tap back on the "cup". Done.

 

[NBurns]

Good evening guys. I have a major major update. I will need to post two screenshots though for you all to read. I believe we may have found the source of where the water got into my diesel fuel tank not once but twice!!!!!

 

[Blobcat]

Good evening guys. I have a major major update. I will need to post two screenshots though for you all to read. I believe we may have found the source of where the water got into my diesel fuel tank not once but twice!!!!!

I think you need a few more tabs open...

 

[NBurns]

I think you need a few more tabs open...

When Safari warned me recently I had to close some tabs on my iPhone because I had over 500 open, i then checked to see how many more I had open on everything. Ot was over 800 tabs between Chrome and Safari.


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[LostKiwi]

Water in diesel fuel will not impact power steering pump/hydraulics. They are independent isolated systems.

 

[NBurns]

Water in diesel fuel will not impact power steering pump/hydraulics. They are independent isolated systems.

Okay so it must have been a bit of rain water then. However do you agree that if the water got in via the actual fuel pumps in the Texaco garage, then this needs further investigation?



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[LostKiwi]

Okay so it must have been a bit of rain water then. However do you agree that if the water got in via the actual fuel pumps in the Texaco garage, then this needs further investigation?


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If it can be proved that water was in the tanks at the garage then they need to take action to rectify it.

 

[Jim2]

I've had problems with water accumulating in diesel storage tanks, ( same tanks as used in filling stations...) water condenses on the inside of the steel tank, and then drops to the lowest level of the tank as it is heavier than the fuel. Tanks are not installed in a 100% horizontal / level position....they will always be a slight slope downwards at one end, and the outlet pipe will always be at the "high" end, and several inches above the bottom of the tank. This is to ensure that the water / contaminants will will be as far away as possible from the outlet pipe. Despite all of this, over the year's, the water etc. level can rise to the outlet level, and it's then that people can start experience's fuel problems in their car's. I'm always a bit wary of getting fuel immediately after the filing station has taken a delivery of new fuel, I prefer to wait a day or so and let the new fuel settle. Older filling stations with a low turnover, are particularly susceptible to this.

 

[Kev555]

Maybe bootleg diesel with water added

 

[Wighty]

Maybe bootleg diesel with water added

You got any left buddy ?

 

[Kev555]

You got any left buddy ?

I can possibly arrange a delivery Its a speciality over here thats been exported over to there

 

[NBurns]

There is guidance in the MOT testers notes relating to taper roller bearings (which MB are) that state that some movement is desirable to allow for heat in the bearing. Non taper bearings should have no movement at all.

To adjust remove the wheel and prise off the dust cap. It can be difficult to remove. Try not to damage it so you can reuse it.
Under the cap is a split nut with a pinch bolt. Using a 5mm (from memory) ball head Allen key loosen the bolt and by hand tighten the nut. Spin the hub several times. It should spin freely. Continue tightening until the hub is not spinning freely then wind the nut back 60 degrees. Check the hub now spins freely and if so refit the wheel with 2 bolts. Check for movement in the 12 6 plane. There should be just the slightest movement. Remove the wheel, check the clamp bolt is tight, refit the dust cap and wheel. Recheck adjustment and if all good job done .

It's important not to set the bearing too tight - they are better too loose than too tight (you'd think the numpty doing the check would know this - unless he does and is using it as a money spinner).

You know what LostKiwi, the absurdity of what he showed me was just unbelievable. While everything else was 'Measured' this test wasn't. And I feel like writing to the Ministry of Transport to ask 'Why' it isn't properly measured against a known range. Everything else is. And yes I feel they were simply looking for something to make money out of me. I feel I should tell Halfrauds head office how I feel about it and what I have been through last year. I did agree with the OSF brake binding and I can fix that. I am in two minds about the head light adjustment dial but it sounds fixable and the tyre is a no brainer. £35, part worn, fitted, sorted!!

And re the bearing's, yes I completely agree with you on that one.
Thank you once again.



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[Blobcat]

You know what LostKiwi, the absurdity of what he showed me was just unbelievable. While everything else was 'Measured' this test wasn't. And I feel like writing to the Ministry of Transport to ask 'Why' it isn't properly measured against a known range. Everything else is. And yes I feel they were simply looking for something to make money out of me. I feel I should tell Halfrauds head office how I feel about it and what I have been through last year. I did agree with the OSF brake binding and I can fix that. I am in two minds about the head light adjustment dial but it sounds fixable and the tyre is a no brainer. £35, part worn, fitted, sorted!!

And re the bearing's, yes I completely agree with you on that one.
Thank you once again.



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You going to bring it to the GTG?

 

[d215yq]

You know what LostKiwi, the absurdity of what he showed me was just unbelievable. While everything else was 'Measured' this test wasn't. And I feel like writing to the Ministry of Transport to ask 'Why' it isn't properly measured against a known range. Everything else is. And yes I feel they were simply looking for something to make money out of me. I feel I should tell Halfrauds head office how I feel about it and what I have been through last year. I did agree with the OSF brake binding and I can fix that. I am in two minds about the head light adjustment dial but it sounds fixable and the tyre is a no brainer. £35, part worn, fitted, sorted!!

And re the bearing's, yes I completely agree with you on that one.
Thank you once again.



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I understand your frustration but I really don't think writing stuff and getting upset with it is going to make you feel better or get any money back. I don't see how what you have been through this year is relevant to them/this case. At the end of the day I don't think it is an "absurdity": the fails sound like they are fails and all of my W124s have needed their front bearings tightened at some point so it's likely at that mileage yours needs it to - and so there is nothing fraudulent here.

It's already been stated that most cars have non adjustable bearings so it's reasonable - though not great - that they would quote to replace them - especially as they haven't probably even taken the wheel off yet - they are not specialists. Any MOT tester openly states that most thigns are not measured but down to interpretation so I don't know why this is a problem either.

Essentially you got a fair MOT and then a quote from a garage to fix it replacing parts that could be adjustable. That's just not fraudulent and is actually pretty mild compared to some more obvious negligence/mistakes garages are capable of where liability runs into the 1,000s of pounds and it all goes to court for years!! Thinking about it when I hada W124 bearing was tightened he had originally put in a quote for a new front ball joint and bearing for a few hundred but then I suppose as he took the wheel off he realised that it was adjustable and then he did it in front of me there and then and realised the balljoint was OK as the play was in the bearing! I didn't complain or not use him again, I was just happy I saved 200 quid.

The most I would do is go back with the items fixed and ask for a free retest even though it's outside the period, maybe stating the delays were caused by the fact they confused you with the bearings and you had to investigate it or some such stuff. If you're nice about it they might just do it for free...and if not they are well within their rights so just don't use them again and forget about it.

At the end of the day dealers are known for replacing parts instead of repairing day in day out and even if you had paid Halfords to replace them you still wouldn't be any position to claim anything. Just focus the energy on fixing the car and getting a free retested MOT and then all this saga will be forgotten about.

 

[NBurns]

You going to bring it to the GTG?

I am heading back to Hedge end today and will begin doing the failures after my girlfriends birthday tomorrow. So I doubt that she will be ready for Saturday sadly



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[daibevan]

Cars are never ready when you want them to be. 3 months after you have sorted these problems you will be in love again.

 

[McDonald]

Let us know when the happy ending happens. An MOT pass and a couple of hundred miles of uneventful driving will do. Your perseverance is admirable and the help you've had from forum fellows = money in the bank.

I look forward to watching the end credits in this saga.

 

[umblecumbuz]

Cars are never ready when you want them to be. 3 months after you have sorted these problems you will be in love again.

Who with?