The saga is almost over - 2005, C220 CDI Classic SE, S203.208 (Estate), OM646.963 Engine

[daibevan]

Who with?

Whoever paid for the repairs

 

[NBurns]

Whoever paid for the repairs

Myself then!!! Apart from getting one injector removed, one bolt removed and the inlets to the engine cleaned out. Everything else has been done, with from so very very helpful forum people, by yours truly!!!



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[NBurns]

Is there any special way to remove the front brake callipers? Two small bolts removed, bigger bolts won't budge, and pads appear welded to the disc which unbeknown to me isn't held in place with two little bolts. So the wheel was holding it on.
I have looked at videos and the epc to get ideas but it's just not budging. Any ideas, please?



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[NBurns]

I think I found the root cause of my binding brakes. One side only so far.



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[Jim2]

Is there any special way to remove the front brake callipers? Two small bolts removed, bigger bolts won't budge, and pads appear welded to the disc which unbeknown to me isn't held in place with two little bolts. So the wheel was holding it on.
I have looked at videos and the epc to get ideas but it's just not budging. Any ideas, please?



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Any chance of a pic? If the pad's were indeed locked on to the disc, then the wheel could not turn. Normally there are only 2 boit's holding the calipher's to the suspension arm, and once they are removed, the calipers should slide off. But it sound's like the calipher's may be seized in your case. When you do get it off, and remove the worn pad's, there is a special tool to rewind the piston's back into the caliphers, to allow for the fitting of the new pads, which being unworn, will be wider than the old ones. You could try opening the brake fluid bleeder screw to release the pressure in the calipher, and try to "push back" the pads with a screwdriver / lever. But dont allow too much brake fluid to escape, and remember to top it up when the job is done.

 

[NBurns]

I think I found the root cause of my binding brakes. One side only so far.
The disc is too far forward and not central between the pads. Plus my mate who fitted new discs and pads for me didn't attach them to the wheel hub. Okay so when the wheel is put on it is then attached but still not central to the pads. Is that correct anyone?

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[Jim2]

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Sorry, but I'm not familiar with this set up...any pads / disc's that I have fitted were never dependant on the wheel to keep them in place.
Just had a look at the pics....something radically wrong there,,,seem's like there are not any pads in the caliphers....it's locking directly on to the disc.

 

[NBurns]

Sorry, but I'm not familiar with this set up...any pads / disc's that I have fitted were never dependant on the wheel to keep them in place.

Well exactly. Thus my binding brakes are a slightly more complex problem than I first thought.



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[Jim2]

Well exactly. Thus my binding brakes are a slightly more complex problem than I first thought.



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See my edited comment above...be interesting to see these caliphers when you remove them.

 

[NBurns]

See my edited comment above...be interesting to see these caliphers when you remove them.

I've finally removed the calliper with the pads. Will post more photos tomorrow of pads.
They look okay.



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[NBurns]

Photos as promised:-



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[NBurns]

Second batch of photos:-



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[NBurns]

Another question. The M12x1.5x45 bolts holding the TS BRAKE CALLIPER to the steering knuckle, are they normal bolts or reverse threaded for some reason? Having major difficulty getting them even loose.



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[NBurns]

Just noticed that this page on the mbepc.net is wrong. That is not what my brakes look like. However the car designation is correct. My car is the S203.208 with engine OM646.963.



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[LostKiwi]

Bolts are standard right hand thread (lefty loosey, righty tighty). Something is distinctly odd there. The disc is too far out from the centreline of the car.

 

[NBurns]

Bolts are standard right hand thread (lefty loosey, righty tighty). Something is distinctly odd there. The disc is too far out from the centreline of the car.

Yep. Exactly. I spotted that just after I managed to finally get the outer calliper off complete with pads.
Re bolts, just wanted to make sure the ones holding the inner part of the calliper were not anything special. Just tightened up rock solid.
I've done my wheel bearings now as you suggested. That was easier than I expected. Just need to make sure they are just right now after I've done these damn brakes.
I also need to check the Mot guidance book again. Re the bearings to see if there is any measurement.



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[mercmancdi]

Yep. Exactly. I spotted that just after I managed to finally get the outer calliper off complete with pads.
Re bolts, just wanted to make sure the ones holding the inner part of the calliper were not anything special. Just tightened up rock solid.
I've done my wheel bearings now as you suggested. That was easier than I expected. Just need to make sure they are just right now after I've done these damn brakes.
I also need to check the Mot guidance book again. Re the bearings to see if there is any measurement.



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does the outside of the caliper not travel though , so it should slide in and out. If free.

 

[NBurns]

does the outside of the caliper not travel though , so it should slide in and out. If free.

Oh, that's interesting. Do you mean that it should travel freely in towards the disc and out again?
With or without fluid?



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[Blobcat]

Oh, that's interesting. Do you mean that it should travel freely in towards the disc and out again?
With or without fluid?

As you only have a piston on one side the calipers should slide side to side (freely) so that both pads get an equal bite on the disc.

Some calipers have pistons on both sides (motorcycles tend to have 6 piston calipers on each disc...) those don't have to slide - you will have pins that the caliper slide on (usually with a rubber dust cover) these need to be cleaned and lubricated otherwise the calipers stick and only one pad gets worn when you brake.

 

[mercmancdi]

Oh, that's interesting. Do you mean that it should travel freely in towards the disc and out again?
With or without fluid?



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Yes as far as I remember , if so you should be able to prise the outer part in and out a bit , you might need to free it up slowly , when outer siezes the only the inner pad wears away or at least wears away quicker.