W211 blue smoke after idle

[Doug1234]

The bracket on the rear of the cylinder head that is shown in the video I posted is part no A6420100131, most of them on Ebay are called engine breathing cover.
These are what the plastic pcv valve is mounted / pushes onto.
I cannot find any info on the large oil seal fitted to it regarding part number or size, so presume it cannot be purchased separately.
As the guy in the video mentions the demise of this large oil seal is the cause of most om642 engines breather system problems.

Here is another video and some pictures showing how the seal gets out of shape and enlarges letting oil through to the pcv valve.
https://www.drive2.ru/l/536680422684229679/

I have found the seal, its part number A0149977146 and commonly called a radial seal ring

 

[Doug1234]

So when the seal is worn out and starts to let oil pass then parking uphill will let oil pool at the base of the pcv valve pickup and there is the cause of the smoke.
This is why there is less or no smoke when parked facing downhill.

 

[rossy]

So when the seal is worn out and starts to let oil pass then parking uphill will let oil pool at the base of the pcv valve pickup and there is the cause of the smoke.
This is why there is less or no smoke when parked facing downhill.

All find but irrelivant ifyou have a catch can.....as it goes in the can before it can get to the turbo!

I now have another issue...
Hope everyone well.....and staying safe.....
Changed the glowplugs while on lockdown (summat to do).....but car had be sat for over a month and I wish I'd gave it a run 1st....because....
After fitting the glowplugs all was well starts well etc....
Today take it for a run and Limp Mode!!
Ran two coders....
Bog standard one reads P0299
My MB icarsoft V2.0 reads P2359-1 Charge Pressure Control - Too Low

As most know and I thing said above its a new Turbo (had two actualy) but came with the actuator....so thats also new....so....
Whats peoples thoughts.....actuator or the Boost Sensor??
Or anything else.......gone over everything I did to change the glowplugs.....all seems fine.....other than bat wing off and on left a bracket to move wires out of the way its was quite easy...I just loosened the air boxes as they are so fiddly enough to get bat wing off....

 

[Doug1234]

Check the actuator arm is still connected to turbo

 

[rossy]

Sorry for not replying, the Garage that did the oil cooler and swirl etc....put the Orage/Red seals back on.....but as I have the samco style blue mod turbo pipe they are not needed.....after check and re checking after doing the glow plugs I took the bat wing back off.....all seemed ok but when I went to put it back....thats when I saw the orange/red turbo pipe kinked inside. removed the orage/red pipes refitted all is fine....
However....only recently found out my scanner does Injector codes....so wanna check them...but confused as to which is injector 1 2 3 4 5 6 etc. Google seach diagrams are not helping....

Whats correct? Just wondering if in its past any have been changed and not coded as 3 have similar codes (like 1st few digits) other 3 are all totaly differant??

 

[alexanderfoti]

First pic is correct, one bank is 1,2,3 second is 4,5,6 cylinder numberimg rarely goes left/right etc.

 

[mark mills]

that was a lot to catch up on. i have the same issue after 5 mins, still there if i leave it till the next day without clearing it out, bought a snap on machine and put another set of used but tested injectors and nothing changed. new pcv valve. i think the angle the cars parked on does change if it smokes on the spot of just when it gets some revs. only does if it once its warmed up.

 

[mark mills]

https://youtu.be/e6URm7hgzv0

https://youtu.be/XHb2kqW7ypA

 

[rossy]

Don't laugh but check there is not too much oil in too.....they are very easy to overfill.

 

[Darrendazza]

So far I have changed crankcase breather added catch can changed turbo for a 77k mine was on 177k done about 400 miles so far but still every now and then smokes when I boot it Haven’t left it run on idle to see if it still smokes but I’m sure it will as after doing the pvc n cc n turbo I’m thinking injectors il leave it run while idle today as since doing turbo n cc I’ve done 400ish miles and done 1500 since I did the oil cooler seals and happy to say there’s not been a single drop in the gally so that’s a win lol only things to do now should b injectors and glow plugs @rossy yes very easy to over fill worst engine I’ve had to top up lol mine seems to change when it feels like it could b just under the max for 5 checks then the next lot of checks it’s about 3-5mm over and that after leaving it sit over night so I’m gonna pull 1/4 litre out (again) and leave it just under the full But will update on the smoke after idle for 7-10mins hopefully with all I’ve done it won’t or at least take longer LOL. I do think it’s gonna b more injectors

 

[mark mills]

mine was clear...but it coud be the hole to the sump.....did not want to put any air through it tho when I did my Turbo. The pedestal you can simply see through it!!

if it could be a blocked return would some seafoam clear it out possibly

 

[rossy]

Update.....just removed all 6 Injectors to be dropped off for test and were needed recon......
Numbering as looking from front....
3------6
2------5
1------4
Mine were all correctly coded......
All came out by hand bar Injector 6 which came out while trying to get the puller base under it by hand....

will keep you posted!!!

 

[rossy]

4 of the 6 injectors realy BAD....so all 6 being done.....again will keep you posted....

and was able to watch them being tested....(social distancing)

2-3 day turn arround.....

 

[Kev555]

That will be a wallet opener but nice if it solves the issue

 

[rossy]

DONT get cheep injector studs and washers off ebay unless fabi....I had one snap!! thankfully was easy to remove as plenty sticking up....
So its up and running....but waiting on a set of new studs....and tourque wrench (5-25nm) as dont trust the one I got...had it years and think it starts at 10....
it was £756 to have the originals recon. Keep you posted....

 

[Kev555]

Injector specialist should supply new copper washers with injectors, mine did and they were quality washers. I didnt trust Febi. I bought genuine Mercedes bolts. Did you test run it with old injector bolts? I bought a Teng Tool 1/4 drive to torque mine since my own spanner only started above range needed. Enjoy sweating with the second 90 turn as I did if your bolts use the same tightening method?

Just looked there seems yours has the same tightening method, Member suggested to me on the forum I did the first 90 then gave it 15 mins to 1/2 hr before doing the second 90 to let the stretch bolt settle as second 90 felt right on the edge of sheering to me

 

[rossy]

Injector specialist should supply new copper washers with injectors, mine did and they were quality washers. I didnt trust Febi. I bought genuine Mercedes bolts. Did you test run it with old injector bolts? I bought a Teng Tool 1/4 drive to torque mine since my own spanner only started above range needed. Enjoy sweating with the second 90 turn as I did if your bolts use the same tightening method?

Just looked there seems yours has the same tightening method, Member suggested to me on the forum I did the first 90 then gave it 15 mins to 1/2 hr before doing the second 90 to let the stretch bolt settle as second 90 felt right on the edge of sheering to me

Yes injectors came with copper washers....but they were at least twice the thickness and thought that may effect possition in bore and torque settings so used new ones that came with the cr@p torque bolts.....I only used one of the originals (hand tight) just to test fire it up. New set of what look like merc ones on way x10 so 4 spare.....plus as I say a lower nm torque wrench.....yeh having snapped one.....I think 7nm then 90 will do.....I doubt I'll have the balls to do another 90......I bought 10 bolts.....so any issues down the line I'll "redo" just the one with issues (chuffing etc).
Biggest worry at mo is what I think is injector knock or nailing.....did not do it before so hoping new bolts cure it....and or ecu relearning same injectors but recon'd......time will tell......or could just be trapped air.....only does it at low rpm.....

 

[Doug1234]

The thicker washers are most likely the Honda 2.2 i cdti injector washers ( 16472 RBD EOO ) which are softer and as you stated twice as thick.
I have had two cases of seal failure on my om642 and both times have replaced using the Honda washers without no ill effects and about 15k now on the first one.
The washes are softer and are also flat compared to the standard Mercedes which are concave and rock hard.

 

[Kev555]

I got the Honda 2.2 washers as well but opted for the injector specialists washers as they felt and looked better but thinner. The Honda washers were too tight a fit around the injector nozzle shaft on mine for my liking and had to be forced on. If you didnt have blow by on the injectors you shouldnt have any issues with any particular washer. Just make sure seats are nice and clean. Two 90s are highly recommended to reduce the chance of blow by in the future but I know its a nerve racking thing to do

 

[rossy]

OK good and bad.....running and the idle smoke issue am 90% sure is fixed!!!

As I said I had all 6 original injectors reconditioned (nossels and returns for those that know).....so no codes changed...I wrote down which came from which and they have gone back from wenst they came .

Now the Garage that did it when I mentioned codes....said it did not matter because...one they are the original injectors and (when I said "but they will be new in effect") said the tolerances are so fine....mainly for economy and mines mapped anyway...
also notice the dash says its gone up now by 10MPG yeh......
As I say its starts and runs fine….pulls well….and although I had a damaged return line o ring on injector 6 ( I must have damaged as all 6 new) which popped off on the 1st test run….spewing diesel everywhere (just managed to limp it home, my o ring kit had some thankfully) much, much less smoke as in hardly any….and let it idle for good 30 mins while I wash and vac and was fine.

But, on pulling away, or light acceleration it sounds well, like an old diesel? Accelerate hard and it sounds normal and pulls normal. Did not do this before, so defo linked to the injectors me thinks…I read there is a thing called injector knock? I know they should be coded and thus I should have maybe got new codes once recon’d but will it just be a case of the ECU trying to sort itself out coz it still thinks its got 2 fully knackered and 2 bit knackered injectors in still, even tho they are all now effectively new????

Ta Rossy