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W210 abs bas esp warning lights

Discussion in 'Electrics, Vacuum, Ignition and ECU' started by andy99, Oct 2, 2017.

  1. andy99

    andy99 New Member

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    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2015
    Location:
    Cornwall
    Your Mercedes:
    2002 W210 E320 CDI
    Hi folks - I know this topic is a perennial bug... please bear with me.

    2002 E2320CDI estate (if it matters) started a few months ago bringing on the abs, bas and esp warning along with the bulb fail warning. Fixed by bending the fuse tabs to make better contact. Hurrah.

    Then it comes back. Did all the basic checks - fuse good, bulbs good etc. Disconnect battery to try to clear fault overnight. Seems to work.

    Then it comes back. Replaced brake light switch with cheapo from ebay. Fixed it... including the steering left/right steering angle sensor reset trick.

    Then it comes back. Suspect low battery voltage so swap with the wife's car with newer battery and reading higher voltage. Seems to fix it.

    All good for a while!

    Then it comes back. Suspect ebay cheap switch so splash out on genuine Merc part. Doesn't fix it. None of my old fixes seem to work. Concerned it's a serious fault now involving the control unit or something more expensive. So far have spent 20 notes not getting very far which I can live with. But I don't have the sort of cash to throw at a car of this age either chasing ghosts. Any other things I can do for cheap or free? Please advise.

    From reading other posts on the topic the order things appear may be important. Ignition (I know it's a diesel...) on no warning. Start engine, bulb fail comes on after a couple of seconds. When I press the brake to move out of park the festival of lights warnings and beeps begins.

    Thank you in advance...

    Andy
     
  2. om613

    om613 Senior Member

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    Aug 29, 2015
    Location:
    london
    Your Mercedes:
    S202 C250TD, S123 240TD
    Sounds like a duff battery to me.
    Was the swapped one up to it?
    i.e. c.105 Ah / 800 CCA?
     
    andy99 likes this.
  3. OP
    andy99

    andy99 New Member

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    Location:
    Cornwall
    Your Mercedes:
    2002 W210 E320 CDI
    Hi, thanks for your time.

    The replacement battery was a newer (but not new) battery of the same spec (type 019) from my wife's ML. It was showing a better voltage than the old one so I chucked it in. To rule out the battery I connected my E-class to my wife's ML via jump leads and started the ML so the voltage at my battery <before> cranking was 14.something. Should that be sufficient? The fault <still> appeared after starting mine.

    I'm looking for a borrow of a new battery before throwing £100+ at it.

    Thanks,
    A
     
  4. ajlsl600

    ajlsl600 Senior Member

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    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2013
    Location:
    france
    Your Mercedes:
    clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
    good luck .let us know, maybe worth a star check.
     
  5. brianbrian

    brianbrian Senior Member

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    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2008
    Location:
    cockney in the West Country
    Your Mercedes:
    w124 250D, SL129-deisel
    You said you checked the fuse, I would change it.
     
  6. bob 6600

    bob 6600 Senior Member

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    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2010
    Your Mercedes:
    Audi S8 V10, S210 E320 CDI (R.I.P.)
    Faults will be clear from the dash but may be stored faults. Not sure if that should matter.

    The BAS/ABS sounds like it is the speed sensore lead on the front wheels - I had this same fault

    See if you can get it on a decent diagnostic, will save you money in the long run
     
  7. OP
    andy99

    andy99 New Member

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    Location:
    Cornwall
    Your Mercedes:
    2002 W210 E320 CDI
    Hi Bob, thanks for your input. I would love to get it fixed (a lovely drive!) but I need a 7 seater for a reason! And they are more expensive than a Mercedes is to run!

    Could you please clarify why you think the front (over the rear)? Have you done the work yourself - is it a standard DIY job or specialist territory? Online bits go from cheap to silly... I can understand that this would trigger a fault on starting but why would it only be apparent when depressing the brake? Surely wheel speeds are monitored and compared at all times regardless of the brake position, because the traction control uses the ABS ring signals to check for slip? The bulb failure warning comes on before pressing the brake despite the bulbs and fuse being good...

    Have tried changing the battery but the fault persists - but I'll reserve full judgment until I've done a run in it. And I've tried a new fuse :)

    Saving for a diagnostic but payday seems an awfully long way off...

    Thanks,
    A
     
  8. bob 6600

    bob 6600 Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
    Audi S8 V10, S210 E320 CDI (R.I.P.)
    Cannot say whether it would be front or back, that is where the diagnostic came in and pointed out which one was faulty.

    Front is easy, remove wheel and it is there in front of you,,,remove the retaining bolt, unclip and replace.

    I bought a Pagid one and it was around £60! I won't say what MB wanted
     

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